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The Word From Toto Tours: September 2009

Detail from erotic temple in Tamil Nadu, India

WHERE IN THE WORLD?

 
For many people the idea of a tour to India is confined to visiting the massive hill fortresses of Rajasthan, and seeing the incomparable Taj Mahal. Being satisfied with those destinations is like trying to make a meal of appetizers only. There is a vast subcontinent to visit, and each area has special features that take the breath away.
     Southern India, and specifically the states of Kerala and Tamil Nadu at the tapering tropical tip of this mighty peninsula, differ radically from the landlocked North and are simply not to be missed. This is truly a world apart where everything seems more vibrant than the muted hues seen elsewhere. Coconut groves seem a deeper green and the rice paddies positively luminescent. Faces are a darker brown and the vermilion caste marks arrestingly red. Silk saris, shimmering classical dance costumes, paddy fields, palm groves and frangipani flowers all radiate with a scorching intensity.
     Our journey begins in the Tamil Nadu state, whose capital is Chennai (formerly Madras). Tamil Nadu is known as the cradle of Dravidian culture, and the icons of this unique civilization are everywhere – huge temples, intricate rock carvings, evocative music and complex classical dance. We work our way south along the coast, exploring historic temples along the way, then gradually turn inland to the beautiful highlands with their colorful tea plantations as we cross into Kerala. A highlight of the tour will be a night spent aboard a houseboat in the beautiful backwaters of Kerala before ending in Cochin (Kochi). Those who wish can continue north to see Delhi, the Taj Mahal, and the Amber Fort.
     This tour features the best of Southern India’s cities, beaches, culture, flora and fauna. Come with Toto Tours to experience a world apart. Our own will never be the same again.
 

South India Detailed Itinerary

A Dravidian Feast

GLOBAL GOURMET: The Cuisine of Southern India

 
South Indian Cuisine, also referred as Dravidian Cuisine, is a term used to refer to the cuisines found in the four southern states of India: Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The similarities in the four states’ cuisines are the presence of rice as a staple food, the use of lentils and spices, use of dried red chilies and fresh green chilies, coconut and native fruits and vegetables like tamarind, plantain, snake gourd, garlic, ginger, etc. The differences between Kerala and Tamil Nadu are described below.
 
Kerala
Kerala cuisine is quite diverse, and its diversity is best classified on the basis of the various communities. The Hindus, especially the Namboodris and Nairs have a predominantly vegetarian cuisine, whilst the Christian and the Muslim communities have a largely non-vegetarian cuisine. Since Kerala’s main export is coconuts, almost all of the dishes, irrespective of the variety in the cuisines of the different communities, have coconuts associated with them, either in the form of shavings or oil extracted from the nut. Seafood is also very popular in the coastal regions and eaten almost every day.
 
Tamil Nadu
The Tamil cuisine is often served in a marriage function or any festival/auspicious occasion. This meal consists of nearly 20 or so items, including the side dishes such as curry, appalam, and pickle. A typical meal consists of many spicy/non-spicy dishes and is predominantly vegetarian. Many of these dishes are typically mixed and eaten with steamed rice, which is the staple food of the region. This cuisine is also known for its rich, sweet dishes that serve as desserts.
 

See the full article on Wikipedia

Filming a fabulous "Bollywood" production

CINEMA CONCIERGE: Films Shot in Southern India

 
Before the Rains (2007) with Linus Roache – filmed in Kerala, Munar

Backwaters (2006) with Jason Flemying – filmed in Kerala

Cotton Mary (1999) with James Wilby – filmed in Fort Cochin, Kerala

Asoka (2001) Bollywood epic – filmed in Alleppey
 

Ernie Ku and Ray Rehan at a waterfall in Uganda

KINDRED SPIRITS: Toto Traveling Companions

 
Meet Ernie Ku from Ann Arbor, Michigan. He and his partner, Ray Rehan, have taken eight journeys with Toto Tours beginning as far back as 1997. These tours have included Costa Rica, rafting the Grand Canyon, barging in the Burgundy region of France, Egypt, Peru (Machu Picchu) and Ecuador (Galapagos Islands), New Zealand, Tunisia, and the recently-completed gorilla safari in Uganda and Rwanda.
 
TOTO:  You and Ray always pick really great trips. Which of the above destinations stand out in your mind as favorites?
 
ERNIE:  To tell you the truth they were all outstanding trips, but if I had to pick one I would pick Egypt as my favorite trip.  Ray and I both were inspired by the historic content of our trip and were awed by the sheer enormity of the pyramids and temples we visited.  Abu Simbel, the cruise on the Nile, Luxor, and having a cocktail at the Old Cataract Hotel which inspired Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile were all memorable.  To even see the graffiti left by Napoleon’s army on the Sphinx was surprising when one realized this was done in the 1800s and was still preserved. 
 
TOTO:  Costa Rica was your first trip with us. What was it about that tour that got you hooked on Toto Tours and has kept you coming back for more?
 
ERNIE:  As a first trip, we relied on the Out and About Gay Travel Newsletter Award that Toto Tours received to venture out with this gay travel company.  Costa Rica was a great primer on what we could expect from future trips with Toto.  This was a coast-to-coast tour of the best of Costa Rica.  The opportunity to spend Thanksgiving with my new “family” in an exotic locale was unforgettable.  We made lifelong friends on this first trip and have since journeyed with many of these same travelers on subsequent Toto Tours.  The repeat business is a testament to the varied and interesting itineraries that Toto creates, and I envy those who will celebrate Thanksgiving together on the Amalfi Coast next month! 
 
TOTO:  I know quite a few prospective travelers who feel that going to a place like Uganda, which has had a lot of negative press recently regarding its stance on gay rights, was foolhardy and unnecessarily risky. How did you feel during our travels there? Was there ever a time when you felt in danger? When you felt unaccepted or discriminated against?
 
ERNIE:  We are first “world” travelers who wanted to visit one of the “thousand places to see before you die.”  Being a “gay” traveler was incidental to seeing the endangered mountain gorillas while it was still possible.  I never felt unsafe or insecure during the whole trip.  I found the people of Uganda and Rwanda to be both welcoming and interested in us.  While not wearing gay “on our sleeves,” if they knew (or suspected) we were gay I believe that our presence would help educate the locals in understanding how important tourism is to their economy and that we are truly not different than any other visitor desiring to learn more of their culture and to see the beauty of their country. 
 
TOTO:  What was your impression of getting “up close and personal” with the Mountain Gorillas? Was it difficult to do? Would you recommend the experience to others?
 
ERNIE:  Viewing the gorillas “up close” was not an exaggeration, and it was an incredible experience.  In many cases we were within 10 feet of them (and sometimes closer).  These families did not seem bothered by our presence and we were respectful of their territory.  We were well prepared for this trip in advance.  The packing list was comprehensive.  I exercised regularly to get into shape, but in reality, it was not at all difficult.  Walking sticks were provided and the gorilla trackers hacked (with machetes) a path for us on our way to the nests.  The elevation was more of a challenge than the hike itself.  The ability to visit these gorillas is extremely controlled and limited.  This may be your last chance to see these “gentle giants” in their natural habitat.
 
TOTO:  This was almost a three-week trip. What do you do for a living, and was it difficult for you to get this much time off? 
 
ERNIE:  I work for the federal government and I find that 2 weeks is about the maximum I can take comfortably.  Since it included the weekends, I was able to get the extra time off for this special trip.  My partner Ray has to block his vacation time about a year in advance so timing can be tricky.  We appreciate it when Dan Ware is able to give us advance notice of any tours he is planning.
 
TOTO:  Tell us a little bit about your personal background and early life? Where did you grow up? When did you meet Ray?
 
ERNIE:  I am an American-born Chinese; my parents met in New York while attending college and married there. I grew up mostly in Michigan and received my B.S. from Michigan State University and J.D. from DePaul University. After a stint in the U.S. Navy and being away from Michigan for almost 15 years, I returned home to Michigan.  Ray and I met at a business networking group called the Motor City Business Forum in 1989. Unfortunately, they are no longer in existence.
 
TOTO:  You and Ray both come from dramatically different cultural backgrounds. Has this been a challenge? How have your extended families responded?
 
ERNIE:  Ray and I dated for 3 years before we bought a home together in 1992.  This year we are celebrating our 20th anniversary.  Our cultural backgrounds are not so dramatically different.  We both have Asian backgrounds (Ray is south Asian) and our parental upbringings were surprising similar. While I believe that neither of us were looking for an “Asian” partner, we both were looking for a long-term relationship.  It was by chance we met and we have been together ever since.  If I had not returned to Michigan, we would never have met!  Both of our parents and siblings have always been very accepting and supportive of our relationship.

TOTO:  What are your hobbies and special interests? Are you involved in any organizations outside your career? 
 
ERNIE:  I am a runner.  I have run in four marathons:  Honolulu, Chicago, Columbus and Detroit.  I occasionally run in shorter races.  Presently, I am also learning Vipassana meditation which I practice on a daily basis.  It is a practice of moment-to-moment awareness known as mindfulness to quiet the mind and body experiences.
 
TOTO:  On which Toto Tour for 2010 are people most likely to find you and Ray, and have the opportunity to get to know you better?
 
ERNIE:  We are excited about Toto’s trip to Turkey in October, 2010.  We are hoping our friends can join us.  What a wonderful way to celebrate Toto’s 20th anniversary!
 

Tag! You're it!

POST-IT NOTES: Office Chatter

 
See the Gorillas. Ernie mentioned how exciting it was to see the mountain gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda. The tour was so incredible we plan to offer it again in 2010 (dates to be announced). You can read a daily journal and see dramatic photos here: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/wareameye/20/tpod.html.
 
Island Hopping in Greece. Our Labor Day adventure this year is a trip to the Cyclades Islands of Greece for trekking and general carousing on Mykonos, Naxos and Santorini. Dan lands in Athens on September 3, and will do his best to update his travel blog regularly throughout the tour. Follow along here: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/wareameye/21/tpod.html
 
A Memorable Thanksgiving. Act quickly if you want to spend Thanksgiving with a great group of new friends and family on the gorgeous Amalfi Coast of Italy. Thanksgiving is all about great food and great company, and we’ll have both in abundance in this incredible destination! http://www.tototours.com/tours/2009/15Amalfi/html/Amalfi.htm
 
Ireland Open To All. By special request, the tour of Ireland scheduled for the July 4th Holiday period next year has been opened to men and women. This is a perfect opportunity to bring along a close friend or family member.
 
Tuscany and Umbria Added. Celebrating Thanksgiving in Italy may become a tradition. Next year we plan to do it again, but this time in Tuscany and Umbria. The dates are November 18 – 28, 2010. Included:  Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Lucca, Pisa, Perugia, Arezzo, Assisi and Gubbio. A veritable feast of fabulousness!
 

Current List of Toto Tours

In This Issue

WHERE IN THE WORLD?

GLOBAL GOURMET: The Cuisine of Southern India

CINEMA CONCIERGE: Films Shot in Southern India

KINDRED SPIRITS: Toto Traveling Companions

POST-IT NOTES: Office Chatter

A riot of colorful figures adorns a temple in Tamil Nadu
TOTO TIDBITS:
Ten Fun Facts about Kerala and Tamil Nadu

1. Kerala is the size of Switzerland and yet supports a population of 29 million people. That’s 747 people per square kilometer compared with 26 in the US.
 
2. Of its population 60 per cent are Hindu, 20 per cent are Muslim and 20 per cent are Christian. There is also a small Jewish community.
 
3. In 1957 Kerala was the first state in the world to bring to power a communist government via democratic elections rather than revolution.
 
4. Over 90 per cent of people in Kerala own the land on which their home stands. Land ownership is limited to eight hectares per family.
 
5. Kerala’s literacy rate is higher than that of any other state in India. The only countries in the Third World to have higher literacy are Cuba, Chile and Costa Rica.
 
6. Electors tend to alternate their vote so that no party stays in power for more than one term. Coalition politics is the norm.
 
7. Kerala’s quality of life is comparatively high, but in conventional economic terms it is a poor state lagging behind the rest of India.
 
8. The position of women is generally better than in other parts of India because they are better educated and have fewer children.
 
9. Chennai has 7.5 million population, making it the fourth largest city in India.
 
10. Chennai has one of the longest continuous beaches in the world.
 
Houseboating in the backwaters of Kerala
PERSPECTIVES: India
The Word from Tour Participants on Toto’s previous tours to India:

“I continue to be amazed at Dan’s ability to handle any situation with joie de vivre and tact and to uplift the group at all times.” – Ian R., New York, NY
 
“Favorite moment? Hmmm, too many to count.” – Aaron R., Seattle, WA
 
“What an exciting cultural, educational experience.” – Jeff H., Columbus, OH
 
“Brilliant and confronting/challenging on a personal level. One trip I will treasure forever for its diversity and the friends that I have made.” – Trevor B., Victoria, Australia
 
“Outstanding tour. All of my travel goals were met.” – Richard T., Rancho Mirage, CA
 
“Thanksgiving at the Lake Palace will undoubtedly be retold by me for the rest of my life. Thanks, Toto, for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.” – Paul F., Pacific Grove, CA
At one of the tea plantations in the highlands of Kerala
BY THE NUMBERS: South India Tour
Dates:  February 4 – 20, 2010 

Group Size:  21 maximum
 
Spaces Remaining:  14
 
Tour Leader:  Dan Ware
 
Wow Factor:  A cultural feast of temples and traditions, costumes and dancing, heavenly Ayurvedic healing and spa treatments, World Heritage sites, blissful beaches, magical mountains covered with emerald-green tea plantations and nature preserves, bustling cities and boating on serene backwaters.
 
Deadlines:  Such a faraway destination requires advance planning – particularly if you want to upgrade from economy to business class using frequent-flyer miles. Now that this tour is guaranteed, grab one of those coveted seats now!
 
Specials:  New bookings for this Southern India tour postmarked by September 30, 2009 can receive a $100 price discount. To qualify, simply write “September Special” on your reservation form.
 
Click the reservation form link below to transport yourself to incredible India in February!
South India Reservation Form
A colorful market in Madurai
A FEAST FOR THE SENSES
Everywhere you turn, new sights and scents and colors enliven your imagination. Traveling through India is like walking into your very own technicolor, sensorama, cinemascope screen epic.
The incomparable Taj Mahal in Agra
RAJASTHAN TOUR EXTENSION
Those who cannot imagine coming to India without seeing the Taj Mahal have an opportunity to book a tour extension to see Delhi, the Taj Mahal in Agra, and the Amber Fort in Jaipur.
Toto Tours • 1326 W. Albion Avenue • Chicago, IL 60626-4753
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