Deep Roots Garden Center            Newsletter                 Midsummer Edition 2012

In the Nursery...




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For every $10 purchase we stamp your card once.


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and you get $10 off your next purchase ! 







thru July 31st


Fountains - 25% OFF





 Japanese Maples - 50% OFF




Fruit and Citrus Trees - 20% OFF




24" box items - 25% OFF


All trees, palms etc. in 24" boxes 





pet safe and looks real!




"Unbelievably lush and realistic"

Synthetic Lawns 

    Tired of trying to maintain a green lawn in this water-wise region? Why not install a synthetic lawn? Synthetic grass looks like the real thing, does not need watering, and will not die.… This is not your sixties AstroTurf !

    We can now organize the installation of artificial turf and have in-store examples of the different types available. Not only does artificial turf look BETTER than the real things it also has other valuable attributes:

Pet and child safe: Perfectly manicured, odor free and indestructible to pets. ASTM certified safe, soft and hypo-allergenic for children and playgrounds. 

Eco friendly: Conserves water, eliminates mower emissions and lawn chemical runoff, made of recyclable materials.

Financially smart: It pays for itself by eliminating ongoing costs such as watering, maintenance, chemicals and lawn repair. It lasts 15-20 years and comes with a Manufacturers’ and Installation Warranty.


Why not come in and talk to us and see the examples!




What to do in the garden now... 


July is half over, the summer solstice has passed and the garden is humming...In these midsummer months  focus on maintenance, watering, and enjoying your garden. With the high heat (we hope) and scorching sun (we wish!) avoid most gardening tasks during the warmest hours, drink plenty of water, and use sunscreen. Wearing a wide-brimmed hat is also a good idea. Take a regular walk around the garden and look out for potential signs of pest and disease and take action before these become a problem.

• The hot hours of the day are not a good time to divide or transplant plants as the heat will cause your plants to suffer from transplant shock. The best time to transplant is in the cool of the late afternoon. Restrict fertilizing and pruning to the cooler hours also. If you are not comfortable working in the heat, chances are your plants will be uncomfortable being worked on too.

• Midsummer is not the ideal time for planting. However sometimes we just cannot resist buying a new plant and putting it into its new home. Pick an overcast day or plant in the evening, add plenty of organic matter to the soil and water in well. Always use a mulch around newly planted plants to help retain moisture.

•  Just about now your containers might be looking a little tired. Flowers you planted in the spring may have bloomed out or become too leggy. Refresh your containers with long blooming summer flowers such as geraniums, torenia, angelonia, gomphrena, bacopa, miniature dahlias and osteospermum, all of which are available at Deep Roots.

• Relax in your deckchair, put your feet up and listen to the birds singing and the bees buzzing.

Compost • Check compost bins from time to time. Your compost should be cooking along. Keep adding material to your compost heap, mixing greens (nitrogen) with browns (carbon) at a 50/50 ratio and cover the heap to retain moisture. If the contents appear too dry, add some water and 'wet' waste, such as kitchen peelings and grass clippings. Don’t let it dry out. The worms can’t work efficiently if things are dried up! •  Keep layering – one layer of wet kitchen waste (nitrogen), one layer of dry leaves, shredded newspaper, etc. (carbon) with an occasional shovelful of garden soil. •  Take the opportunity to turn the contents too, this will help to aerate it and activate the bacteria that help to decompose all your waste into lovely rich, dark humus to put back on the garden. If you don't have enough green waste (nitrogen) you can add Blood Meal to heat things up.

Watering and mulching: •  These are by far the most important garden jobs in midsummer. Keep plants well watered during dry spells to avoid them becoming stressed and susceptible to pests and diseases. • Try to plant your flower beds so that there is no bare soil – make full use of mulches and ground cover plants. This will reduce evaporation, keep the soil cool, and prevent weeds from germinating. Weed-free grass clippings can be piled onto beds, several inches thick. Don't cover young seedlings (apart from weeds) and don't pile up too close to plant stems. • Give your plants a deep soaking, not just a couple of squirts with the hose. •  Container plants will need to be watered often. How often? Depending upon the weather, at least several times a week, and daily during hot spells or Santa Ana wind conditions. Remember the golden rule: if the soil is wet DON"T WATER IT!  • Plants growing by fences and walls invariably suffer dryness at the roots. Keep all wall/fence trained plants well watered - and mulch to retain moisture. Also the soil next to the concrete footing of a wall often is highly alkaline due to the concrete seeping into the soil. Plants may not do well in this kind of location unless you acidify the soil on a regular basis.

Other Water conservation Ideas • Wash your car on the lawn. The soap won’t hurt it. When you boil eggs, or when you are done with ice buckets/ice chests let the water reach room temperature and then water your plants with it.

Clean-up and Maintenance • Work outdoors in the cool of the morning and stay hydrated. • Stay on top of weeds by first pulling any that are blooming, before they set seeds. • Clean the filter in water features, and add extra aeration to fish ponds in high temperatures. • Refresh the water in fountains and birdbaths. • Clean and refill hummingbird feeders every few days. • Golden rule #2: Never fertilize a dry plant. Wet the soil first. • Remove Japanese beetles and other pests when you see them, keep an eye out for thrips (distorted flowers and silver coloration), spider mites (look undersides of leaves), tomato fruitworm , tomato horn worm, and cabbage looper caterpillars (holes in leaves). Treat for these insects as soon as you notice them and before they become a serious problem.

Lawn Care • Continue mowing as needed, but don't cut your lawn too short, it will survive the hot dry weather much better if it is a little longer. • Make sure lawn mower blades are sharp, so they cut cleanly. • Set the mower at the highest setting for your lawn type (3”- 4” for cool-season grasses, 2”- 3” for warm-season grasses). • Try leaving the box off the mower, and let the clippings fly. They will rot speedily in warm weather, returning valuable nitrogen to the growing grass. You'll save time and effort if you don't have to go back and forth emptying the mower box. • Make sure your lawn gets at least one inch of water per week.

Ponds and Fountains • Keep your pond topped up in hot weather. • Make sure you have oxygenating plants in your pond so creatures can breath. A small fountain or cascade can help keep your pond oxygenated. The sound of trickling water can be very relaxing too. Rake out any blanket weed that has formed, make sure you leave it by the side of the pond for a couple of days, so any creatures caught in it can return to the water. • Keep bird baths clean and filled with fresh water. • Leave shallow bowls of water around your garden for butterflies, bees and other beneficial insects – they need fresh water! Be sure to add rocks to the shallow bowls so insects won’t drown as they are trying to get a drink. It’s very sad to see hard-working bees that have drowned in deep water. Do what you can to avoid this. We need the bees!

Beneficial insects  • Ladybug larvae eat aphids. Don’t kill these bugs thinking that they are bad. This is a busy season for pests, but fortunately the beneficials, such as hover fly larvae, ladybugs and many others, should also be present in large numbers to deal with them.

Fungus Gnats If you have an infestation of fungus gnats (Sciarid flies) in container plants, reduce watering immediately. These pests thrive on moist, organic material in potting soil. Top dress the soil in the pots with coarse grit to maintain a dry surface, and only water from the bottom. Spray with Spinosad.

In your vegetable garden •  By now you should be reaping the rewards of your vegetable plot with freshly picked herbs,  onions, garlic, zucchini, squash, beans, tomatoes and potatoes. Summer is all about cooking and eating for the vegetable gardener so enjoy the abundant rewards of your labor. • With regards to watering your vegetables, the golden rule is 'soak not splash', giving plants an occasional thorough soaking rather than a short drink every day. Apply water directly to the soil in the mornings to prevent leaf scorch. • Remove garlic flower heads to encourage bulb growth. • Add compost or organic fertilizer to vegetable gardens. • Harvest veggies. Give away or freeze any produce you can’t use, and remove plants that have finished producing. •  In many cases, picking encourages continued flowering, and thus increased production. • Check zucchini plants daily to avoid the “baseball bat” phenomenon; huge zucchini don’t taste that great except in chocolate zucchini loaf, which is really more about chocolate than zucchini! (Although the moistness zucchini brings to a cake, like carrots, is irrefutable). • Search regularly for beans, cucumbers and other green veggies that might be hiding under the leaves. Do not allow these to go to seed or the plants will stop producing. • Continue weeding, watering, and removing insects. • Start seeds for cool-season fall vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage, and spinach but keep them out of the hot sun • Mulch sprawling plants to keep vegetables off the ground.• Harvest berries before birds and squirrels eat them. • Harvest corn when the tassels turn brown and the kernels are full and milky.• Harvest melons when they slip easily from the vine. • Check all vegetable netting for holes and gaps that may allow pests to attack.

Fruits • Check berries regularly to harvest before the birds, squirrels, raccoons, opossums or skunks get them .• Harvest raspberries and strawberries, plums, peaches and apricots. Time to get out the jam-making equipment! My favorite jams? I try to combine more than one fruit in each jam: Plum and fig (I use dried figs for this…soaked in Triple Sec or Sherry first). Pear and Fig with Madeira wine, Apricot and Raspberry. Jam is fairly easy to make, just a bit time consuming. It is nice to dedicate a whole morning to making jams while listening to the radio. It makes me feel like Mother Earth. I particularly like to put a spoonful on my plain yogurt. Wonderful stuff.

• When you complete your harvest from your summer fruit trees such as peaches, apricots, plums, etc., be certain that you have cleaned up all fallen fruit from around the tree and any fruit that has mummified on the tree. Such fruit, if not removed, will attract wasps and harbor overwintering pests and disease organisms. • Check fruit trees for water sprouts (branches growing straight up from limbs) and remove them by tearing them off the mother root or branch • Cut and dig unwanted strawberry  runners to increase the mother plant’s fruiting capacity. If you want to keep them for next season, place them in a small pot of soil until they root and then cut the stem that is attached to the mother plant. You can then plant elsewhere, or give to friends. Some gardeners think it’s best not to keep the same strawberries going for more than two or three years. Others disagree – but it is normal for the berries to start getting smaller. I like to start some of the runners, keeping them fed, to replace older plants gradually.

Grapes • To keep birds and wasps away from grapes, enclose whole clusters in paper bags until the clusters have ripened. Thin grapes by selectively removing grape clusters to allow remaining fruit to get larger. This encourages ripening also. Remove some leaves (but not all) from around the clusters to increase air circulation and avoid bunch rot.

Citrus and other sub tropicals: Plant kumquat, lemon, lime, orange, and other citrus. Feed your citrus trees regularly for green leaves, many flowers and delicious fruit. Inspect for pests regularly.

Herbs: The herb garden should be at its most delicious. Flowers are blooming, leaves growing and seeds are ripening - lots of choices for the table. Some herbs will be nearing the end of their growing season, so it is also a time to start harvesting and storing - and sowing or planting more! • Give herbs a haircut, and use the cuttings in salads, or make herb dipping oil (see recipe above right). • For maximum flavor, harvest herbs just as the flower buds appear. Shear back annual herbs (such as basil) to encourage a second harvest. • Harvest lemon balm, Winter savory, hyssop, tarragon, thyme, lavender, marjoram and most other herbs this month.

Edible flowers from the herb garden: Using flowers in salads and other recipes is an ancient method of adding flavor and color to food. Pick early in the day, taking care not to bruise the delicate blooms. Here is a list of some edible plants and blooms: marigold (calendula officinalis), nasturtium (tropaeolum magus) , dandelion (taraxacum officinale), violet (viola odorata), pinks (dianthus Sp.), borage (borage officinalis), rose (rosa sp.), anise hyssop (agastache foeniculum), chives (allium schoenoprasum), garlic chives (allium tuberosum), zucchini flowers.

Trees and Shrubs • Prune dead, damaged, or diseased branches. • Stop fertilizing trees and shrubs to allow them to reduce growth during the heat of summer. • Summer prune mature full-sized fruit trees once you have harvested the fruit. Winter pruning encourages strong growth, summer pruning limits strong growth. • Remove suckers by yanking downward to remove the growth bud.

• Prune spring-flowering shrubs, then leave them alone to set buds for next year. Summer and fall flowering shrubs should not be pruned unless badly overgrown while non-blooming hedges can be trimmed as needed.• Deadhead roses and other flowering shrubs so they will continue blooming.• Plants suffering from iron deficiency will benefit from an application of chelated iron and soil acidifier.

• Continue planting and transplanting container-grown trees and shrubs, but give them extra water and shade protection, if possible. • Avoid digging or cultivating around shallow-rooted plants or otherwise disturbing the roots. •Take softwood cuttings of shrubs such as hydrangea, buddleia, rose, and hibiscus. • Water trees infrequently, but deeply at the drip line.

• Camellia and azalea plants need reliable irrigation during the summer months. These plants are beginning the budding cycle that will produce next season’s flowers. Water the plants deeply and consistently and fertilize with an acid fertilizer.

•  Now is the time to start picking hydrangeas for drying. Pick the flowers when the petals turn slightly "leathery", and put them into 2 inches of water in a cool place with low light. If you have timed it right the flowers  will not shrivel and die once all the water has gone, but will continue to dry out, keeping their color. If the flower heads do die it is because they were not "leathery" enough when picked.

In your ornamental garden: The lushness of spring growth may be over and many plants have already passed their peak. • Spend some time having a good tidy up, deadheading and cutting back spent flowering shoots and seed heads. Deadheading many plants followed by the addition of some fertilizer will encourage them to flower again. • Prune and fertilize roses, annuals and perennials to promote more blooms. The deeper into the plant structure you cut, the longer new flowers will take to develop, so don’t go overboard if you want to see another flush of blooms. • Fertilize the plants one week after pruning.

• Hanging baskets need regular watering. Even on cloudy days check them and see if they need water. Don’t let them dry out completely as it will be difficult to re-wet them once completely dry. Moist soil takes in water more readily than dry soil. Larger baskets hold more moisture thus require less frequent watering. Water adds considerable weight, so make sure your basket hangers are secure. • Also don't forget to fertilize and deadhead them regularly.

• Plants in containers will benefit from a top dressing. Worm compost or leaf mold are ideal. • Also give them a little fertilizer if you haven't done so recently. • Peat-based container mixes become hydrophobic (they repel water) when they dry out completely; it’s hard to re-wet them. If a planted container has completely dried out, fill a larger container with water and submerge the dry container in it for half an hour or longer if needed.

Perennials • For fall blooms, shear back chrysanthemums and asters •  Give a light haircut to bushy or leggy perennials to encourage re-blooming. • Support vines and tall plants with trellises or stakes. • Cut flowers in the early morning when the stems are plump. • Divide and transplant Oriental poppies. Annuals and Containers • Water container plants daily (or even twice a day) if the weather is hot. • Fertilize every couple of weeks. • Deadhead faded blossoms to increase blooming. • Pinch back leggy stems to encourage branching. • Start seeds for pansies and other fall annuals but keep out of the heat.

Houseplants • Put houseplants outdoors in the shade for the summer. They might enjoy a light spray with a hose once in a while too – never in direct sunlight, best done in the morning. This may deter spider mites and other pests from taking up residence on their leaves. (Don’t spray woolly-leaved plants, such as African violets.) • Water houseplants regularly. • Feed houseplants every couple of weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer. • Examine houseplants for insects and diseases and treat accordingly. • Repot pot-bound houseplants.

Making plans • Gardening is for optimists and requires patience and a faith in the future. Now is the time to look around your garden and decide what is working and what is not. Draw a plan of your garden, label the plants you want to move and make a note to yourself as to where you can move them once they are dormant.

______ All trees, plams etc in 24" boxes

The Herb Garden

When it comes to plants, we at Deep Roots like to bring in the unusual, the  uncommon and the unknown. Our selection of herbs is no exception. Here are two of the less known herbs that we have in stock:


Winter Savory. It is an herbal mystery why Winter Savory is relatively unknown when for hundreds of years it has been grown and used extensively in cooking (and for good reason.) If  I had to choose only one herb to take with me to a desert island it would be Winter Savory.  It has a strong spicy flavor - a mixture of thyme and basil - and it at its best when sprinkled fresh on a tomato salad.


Winter savory is a 12", dark green, semi-woody, perennial that is easy to grow.  It makes an attractive border plant for any culinary herb garden.  Plant where it can get about six hours of sun a day in soil  that drains well.


Winter savory’s growth cycle starts in early spring with soft, lush, flavorful, rapidly-growing stems. The longer these stems grow and the older the plant gets, the woodier the plant gets. If left on the plant, the stems reach about 12 inches long and produce clouds of small white flowers. Supple sprigs that push up from the ground and new side shoots off the older woody stems are perfect for fresh use. Older leaves along the arching woody branches are best used in cooked dishes as they hold up well. Removing old branches back to the ground a couple of times a year keeps the plant clean and open to the sun and air, and produces more lush growth.


Use Winter savory in any recipe that calls for thyme or basil. Winter savory is a great mixing herb. It blends well with different culinary oreganos, thymes and basils and can be added to meat, poultry, fish and eggs. Its small leaves are the perfect complement to herb cheeses or as last-minute additions to sautés. Winter savory is famous for making its mark on beans. For a simple and delicious side dish, sauté chopped onions and a little garlic, throw in some Winter savory and a can of Northern beans and heat (this is great with roast lamb). Winter savory also perks up stuffings, and I mix it with sage, thyme, and bay leaves to stuff my Christmas goose. Add to ground turkey or pork, with fennel seed, cayenne pepper, and thyme. Or, add a pinch to chicken salad or hearty soup. Winter savory is also perfect sprinkled on a plain omelet. There are very few dishes that a little Winter savory won't make better.



Lemon Balm


Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), a member of the mint family, is considered a "calming" herb. It was used as far back as the Middle Ages to reduce stress and anxiety, promote sleep, improve appetite, and ease pain and discomfort from indigestion (including gas and bloating as well as colic). Even before the Middle Ages, lemon balm was steeped in wine to lift the spirits, help heal wounds, and treat venomous insect bites and stings. Today, lemon balm is often combined with other calming, soothing herbs, such as valerian, chamomile, and hops, to help promote relaxation. It is also used in creams to treat cold sores.


Lemon Balm is a pretty plant that grows up to 2 feet tall. Plant it in full sun or light shade. When crushed the young leaves have a fresh, lingering, lemon scent and a mild lemon-mint flavor. The aroma is subtle and pleasant, and not as penetrating as that of lemon verbena or lemongrass. Lemon Balm combines well with apples, apricots, melons, peaches, figs and summer berries, and is lovely in white Sangria.


For cooking, lemon balm is a pleasant accent for fish or chicken, fruits and vegetables, or salads and beverages.  Use it to flavor oils or with other herbs in compound butters. Lemon balm compliments basil, chives, parsley, mint and dill. It is best used fresh rather than dried and the flavor will be brighter if added near the end the cooking process. Make a pesto for pasta with lemon balm instead of basil. Float some Lemon Balm leaves in a jug of lemonade, or just chop a few leaves over your green salad... delicious!


Deep Roots

Garden Center &

Floral Design Studio 


9AM - 6PM daily

201-207 N. Sepulveda Blvd.

Manhattan Beach,

CA 90266


Garden Center: 310-376-0567

Flower Shop: 310-379-3634


In the Floral Design Studio...

For special rates  on

weekly floral orders

please call 310-379-3634




Eco-Friendly Deep Roots Floral Design Studio is eco-friendly...we use washable rags; recycle cardboard, paper and plastic; and compost old flowers. 

 Call us at 310-379-3634 to order your unique custom designed arrangement or bouquet. To examples of our work visit our web site:



Holes in Leaves

Customers often want to know what is causing the holes in the leaves of their plants. It could be any number of insects or diseases: earwigs, snails, caterpillars, weevils, slugs, grasshoppers, certain beetles, etc. Most of these pests can be controlled by spraying with an organic pesticide. Bring in a leaf sample and we will suggest a remedy.


CSA Organic Veggie Boxes

We are an established drop off point for the South Central Farmers Cooperative Community Supported Agriculture vegetable boxes.


The large boxes of seasonal, organic vegetables and fruit are delivered to Deep Roots Garden Center every Wednesday at approximately 2.00 pm and we store them in our large flower cooler until closing time the following day.


Customers may order a box every week, every two weeks, once a month or simply when you feel like one. The boxes contain enough seasonal organic vegetables to feed a family of four for a week or a single/couple for two weeks.


Payment is in advance – please place your order before noon on Mondays. Why not come in and order a box? Or you can phone 310-376-0567.


At $21 a box it is great value.

To find out what has been in the box recently visit:



Herb Dipping Oil

 - Pick two handfuls of your favorite herbs  such as thyme, Winter savory, chives, basil, oregano (not mint, it doesn't lend itself very well to this recipe).

- Peel several cloves of garlic.

- Chop them all together very finely or grind them in a coffee grinder kept specially for herbs and garlic.

 - Mix with extra virgin olive oil and crunchy sea salt and serve with your favorite rustic bread.




We have been having very good reports from customers who are growing cool season tomato varieties such as Stupice, Glacier, Legend, Manitoba, Early Girl, and most especially Siberian and San Francisco Fog (photo above). These varieties will produce flowers and fruit even in cool temperatures and when there is no sun. Sounds like our weather! • The first tomato season is now well under way but we can still plant many vareties and get another crop in before the weather gets too cold. We have several varieties of tomato plants here at Deep Roots.  • The term "Cool Weather" tomato plants do not mean that the plants are necessarily hardy in cold temperatures. It means that fruit will ripen in lower temperatures and with less sunshine than regular tomaotes.

Tomato care in July and August • Give large tomato plants extra water, and perhaps a little shade, if temperatures should get over 90° F. Tomatoes do not like to get too dry; they don’t like their leaves to be wet either, finicky creatures – but they taste so good we put up with their demands. Most varieties will be ripening now – and they taste really good with fresh ricotta, fresh basil leaves, and a drizzling of fruity olive oil, or in a salad with fresh chopped Winter savory...(see below left). 



We offer 10% discounts to members of:

Hermosa Gardening Club, the Manhattan Beach Botanical Gardens, The South Coast Botanic Gardens, The Surfrider Foundation, Heal the Bay, and all senior citizens on Senior Day (Tuesdays). 

We have added members of the Military, Coastguards, Police, and Firefighters to this list. Bring along your badge or wear your uniform to get a 10% discount on everything! We thank you for your service.


Going On Vacation?

It’s summertime and you are going on vacation. What to do with your houseplants and containers? Some people are lucky enough to have a neighbor or friend who will water the plants along with feeding the family pets. However, for those of us who are not so lucky, what strategies can we employ to keep our plants alive while we are away?

In assessing the needs of a plant during your absence you will need to figure out the best way to keep them alive by:

First considering how large your container is. Obviously smaller hanging baskets take more water than very large patio containers.

The second consideration is where the container is and how much direct sun the container gets.

Finally consider the plants themselves. Some plants are more drought tolerant than others.

With these considerations in mind you can guage whether the plants will survive alone without your care for the time you are away. If they can, water them well before you go and remember to water again when you return.

For the rest, there are several options.

If you are going away for a short time:

Move them Inside: This is ideal for smaller containers such as hanging baskets. Water the containers and let them drain well before bringing them inside. Place them in bright light but away from direct sunlight. When you return, take the plants back outside and water them well.

Move them to a shady spot: If the plants cannot be brought inside, then consider relocating them to a shady position such as under the deck where they will not require as much water.

A reservoir of water with a wick: The wick really should be in place before you plant, let alone go on vacation, but if you didn’t think that far ahead you can still improvise. Assuming you cannot lift and move the container you will need a decent sized bucket, preferably covered to reduce evaporation. Take a few strips of an old towel and soak them in the water. With one end still in the water, bury the other end into the container, trying to get the wick close enough to all the plants so that they will receive water. The end that is in the bucket should ideally reach the base of the water bucket so that it still works when the water level goes down. Place the reservoir on the shady side of the container. The wick should absorb water from the bucket and transfer the water to dry soil in the container.

Obviously none of these methods are ideal, but they do give you a few ideas that enable you to take a trip for a few days without losing your beautiful containers and hanging baskets to the hot, dry conditions that occur during summer.

If you are going away for an extended period of time:

Polymers, such as “Soil Moist” are small white granules that can cut watering frequency in half. Pre-moisten a few of the granules and wait for them to increase to their full size. Using a pencil, poke several 2-inch deep holes in the soil (make sure the holes are deep enough to reach the roots but not too close to the center stems of the plant). Fill the holes with moistened polymers, cover with soil, and water the plant thoroughly. One 8oz bag can water 15 x 3 gal plants.

Commercial plant watering wicks can keep plants moist. They look like shoelaces with a plastic knob at one end. Soak the wick in water until saturated. Water the plant thoroughly, place the plastic end of the wick into the soil of the plant and place the other end in a 16 to 32 ounce container filled with clean water, making sure to keep the container at a lower level than the water. The water will slowly diffuse into the soil and keep the plant moist for a week or two.

If you have several houseplants that require watering, find a large galvanized tub and line it with heavy plastic. A large TubTrug would be even better. Fill the tub about half way with soil. Water all your houseplants thoroughly and place them, pots and all, into the tub. Cluster the plants together placing the smaller pots, which will dry out faster, in the middle. Fill the remainder of the tub with soil. Cover the top of the soil with a generous layer of peat moss, water the container well and place the tub in a bright light (but not direct sunlight). Your plants should be fine without additional watering for about two weeks.

Outdoor Plants

For outdoor containers that need regular watering, dig a trench in a shady area of your garden. It need only be as deep as the pots are high. Place the plants in the trench, again keeping the smaller plants near the center, and fill the trench in with soil. Cover the soil with mulch and water thoroughly.

If you plan to be away from home for more than two weeks, it's still a good idea to ask a friend or neighbor come by to water your plants for you.

If you have indoor plants, going on vacation is a concern, especially if you have no-one to water your indoor plants while you're on vacation. You can buy devices that water indoor plants, but plant watering devices

Plastic Bag Method

Another way to ensure that the plants stay healthy is to create a greenhouse environment to house the plants in. This can be done by covering the plants with a clear plastic bag. Sealing indoor plants in clear plastic bags holds in valuable moisture and humidity, and indoor plants thrive in this type of environment.

Simply place your plants, pots and all, into individual clear plastic bags. Put a saucer under the pot then fill the saucer with water. Make sure the bags are large enough so the plastic doesn't come in contact with the foliage. If necessary, place sticks in the pots to keep the plastic from touching the plants. Water the plants thoroughly, and tie the top of the bag with a twist tie, or simply tie a knot. Humidity will form on the sides of the bags, and your plants will stay moist and healthy while you're on vacation.

If your plants are very large, wrap only the pots in clear plastic bags, and secure the plastic around the base of the stems with twine. This plant watering method isn't as effective as the whole bag method, but this will keep your indoor plants from drying out for at least a week.

Watering With Bricks

If you don't mind bricks in your bathtub or utility sink, bricks can water indoor plants while you're on vacation. Simply fold a bath towel in half lengthwise, and place enough bricks on the towel to support your indoor plants. Add lukewarm water to the bathtub until it barely covers the bricks. Remove any saucers from beneath your indoor plants, and set your indoor plants on the bricks. Your indoor plants will absorb the water they need while you're on vacation.


Gardening 101

Planting your plants....


Once you get your plant home wait until the cool of the late afternoon to plant it in the ground. Planting in full sun and heat will stress the plant and cause transplant shock.


Before planting, water the plant still in its pot to make sure the rootball is wet. Prepare the ground by loosening the soil. Mix in some compost or planting mix and a good handful of organic fertilizer such as Dr. Earth.  Dig a hole 2 to 3 times the width and a few inches deeper than the root ball. If you did not till or turn in a soil ammendment, mix compost at a 50/50 ratio with soil dug from the hole. Fill the hole with water and let it drain away. Take the plant out of the container at the last minute making sure to keep the rootball intact. Set the plant in the hole and backfill around the root ball, making sure that the top edge of the rootball is at ground level or slightly above to allow for settling. Make sure to tamp lightly as you back fill to remove any air pockets and level out the soil.


Water each plant thorougly after planting, and on an as-needed basis until established. Do not overwater. Many perennials, as with many other plants, do not like saturated soil - unless, of course, they are bog garden perennials.


The Collection....

"The Collection"




extraordinary, rare and unique plants


You may have seen this label on some of our plants and asked yourself "what does this mean?"


We place this label on plants that we consider to be rare, difficult to obtain or unique. They may also be finicky and difficult to grow, although this is not always the case.


These plants are for the plant collectors among us...


Introducing - the Monkey Flower



    The Mimulus family of small water-wise shrubs are compact, well-branched California natives that grow to 2-3 feet tall and 3 ft wide with dark green glossy leaves. They flower nearly year-round in coastal gardens with peak bloom spring into summer.


    Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system. After plants are established, fertilize and water sparingly.


We have them in several different colors: Creamy white with a yellow throat, burgundy and bright yellow. 




Deep Roots Garden Center • 207 N. Sepulveda Blvd. • Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
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